Surfing is not easy for a big guy. I know that the transition from belly to feet is tough for everyone, but for a big guys like me, it’s exceptionally hard. “Popping Up” is not something my body does. After two days of attempting to get up, today was my day and I rode quite a few waves into the shore. LOVE IT!
The most shocking part about surfing to me at this point was how much easier it was than I expected once I got up. It felt so natural. Verging on simple (at my level at least!). I think my body recognized it as a sport similar to skiing, snowboarding and water skiing and the second I was standing on that board, I felt like I had complete control. Second wave of the morning, my body surprised me by discovering how to carve into the wave a bit and pick up speed as well as length. I can’t wait to get back out there tomorrow!
So what was the trigger that helped me start to figure it out? Yesterday, the theme from Kurt was to pop-up. It didn’t work for my body… but today, Kurt told me to focus on being fluid. That made all the difference in the world. That how I approach skiing too, so it really connected with my body. We’ve got an amazing team working with us from the Costa Rica Surf Institute. They are a well oiled machine, and only two days in, I can recommend CRSI with a 120% positive rating. I have been so so so impressed.
Tomorrow is day three of surfing. I can’t wait to try it out again. It’s a lot of damn work to get up, but wow, it’s so addictive and wonderful. I’m so happy in the water, I feel so at home in the ocean.