Matt’s reflections on learning to surf

Surfing is not easy for a big guy. I know that the transition from belly to feet is tough for everyone, but for a big guys like me, it’s exceptionally hard. “Popping Up” is not something my body does. After two days of attempting to get up, today was my day and I rode quite a few waves into the shore. LOVE IT!

The most shocking part about surfing to me at this point was how much easier it was than I expected once I got up. It felt so natural. Verging on simple (at my level at least!). I think my body recognized it as a sport similar to skiing, snowboarding and water skiing and the second I was standing on that board, I felt like I had complete control. Second wave of the morning, my body surprised me by discovering how to carve into the wave a bit and pick up speed as well as length. I can’t wait to get back out there tomorrow!

So what was the trigger that helped me start to figure it out? Yesterday, the theme from Kurt was to pop-up. It didn’t work for my body… but today, Kurt told me to focus on being fluid. That made all the difference in the world. That how I approach skiing too, so it really connected with my body. We’ve got an amazing team working with us from the Costa Rica Surf Institute. They are a well oiled machine, and only two days in, I can recommend CRSI with a 120% positive rating. I have been so so so impressed.

Tomorrow is day three of surfing. I can’t wait to try it out again. It’s a lot of damn work to get up, but wow, it’s so addictive and wonderful. I’m so happy in the water, I feel so at home in the ocean.


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1 Comment

  1. Way to go, Matt. Sounds exhillerating as well as fun. Glad you are doing so well. Can’t wait to see more videos. It’s really fun reading and watching what you’re doing. As always, we love FaceTime!!
    Hugs & Love to all, Mom

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